Frugal Foodie on a British Pound: Signs of Spring

Not asparagus, but my baby sunflowers!

As exams approach rapidly, I seem to find an increasing variety of ways to procrastinate. But what better way than by sharing with you, my dear readers, the arrival of spring in the United Kingdom. At best, the weather here for much of the year can be described as 'dreary'. It is damp, chilly (but not freezing), and blustery. And then the sun comes out. Because we so rarely experience cloudless skies, sunbreaks and the azure heavens evoke a certain thrill, an excitement that one doesn't experience in places like the SF Bay Area (or even Washington, DC, for that matter). When the sun comes out, it quickly becomes apparent the extent of habitation in the city - as people come out of the wood-work, rush to the parks and the fields for sport and lounging.

For me, the signs of this spring renewal are tied tightly to certain floristic indications. Regardless of whether in my childhood home, the Nation's capital, or across a large body of water, the emergence of spring will always be intrinsically linked to asparagus. It is a perennial shoot in the lily family that emerges for only a short period in more northern climes - usually in May and early June. While available year round, imported from tropical regions, there is something particularly special about the ephemeral enjoyment that local and fresh asparagus brings during the spring.

Like many of the plants we consume, our ancestral interactions date back at least a few milennia. Evidence of cultivation and the stem's regal role in cuisine is found in ancient Greek and Roman writing, including the first known recipe book! Probably best known in French culinary tradition, asparagus made its way from the Levant to French monastery gardens in the 15th century, before negotiating a place on English and German tables a century or so later. It is high in micronutrients, and prized for its delicate flavor. 

Unlike the past three years, asparagus is not compromising the majority of my diet during the month of May (as much as I wish it were). And despite the title of this post, asparagus is also not a staple for those on a tight budget (unless you happened to have the foresight to grow your own). However, it is such a vital part of the season that it would just not do to leave it be. Thus, a dish that exudes springiness, despite its slightly elevated price tag (still only a couple of ££)...

Spring Polenta

1 cup boiling water (more as needed)

1/2 cup dry polenta

1/2 onion, chopped

1 tsp olive oil

5 leaves lemon balm

1 sprig thyme

Salt to taste

6 spears asparagus, cut

1/2 cup cherry tomatoes, halved

1 tsp olive oil

1. Place asparagus and cherry tomatoes on an oiled baking sheet and roast in a 180C oven for about 15 minutes, until asparagus is soft.

2. Meanwhile, heat oil in a pot over medium-high heat. Sautee onions until translucent and then add water. Bring to a boil before adding polenta. Mine tends to cook quickly, so I need to stir almost constantly for about 10 minutes, but follow the directions on whatever type of polenta you are using.

3. Once it is beginning to thicken, add the herbs and cook until it is no longer gritty (you may need to add more water). 

4. Toss in the tomatoes and the asparagus stems. Top with the crowns and serve!

Fifty Second Friday: My Last Asparagus

The last, the very last. Yes, that brief spring period where asparagus dominates the menu has come to an end. As temperatures become warmer, these little stalks can think of little else but going to seed. But the time is ripe, as summer produce beings to proliferate. Tomatoes, basil, and zucchini have started to show their lovely faces at market. 

That is something we just have to embrace when eating with the seasons. Sometimes they are just excruciatingly short. Black raspberries only stick around for about three weeks. Green garlic and garlic scapes only last until the bulb has grown up. Strawberries are done (for now), and there will be a flurry of figs in the late summer/early fall. And while this may be difficult to stomach, in a culture where we are accustomed to buying whatever we want, whenever we want, there is a certain beauty in it. The anticipation of the season's first blueberries; the juicy decadence of a perfectly ripened, height-of-summer peach; the crunchy sweetness of the prolific peas (sugar snaps, please).

So in an attempt to pay homage to the outgoing season and the one incoming, I melded everything on top of a baked crust. The aging asparagi met the fresh garlic, at the apex of its life; first of the season summer squash and basil fraternized with last-year's canned tomatoes. It was heavenly.

Spring Meets Summer Pizza Pie

crust

1/4 cup buckwheat flour

1/4 cup millet meal

1/4 cup corn meal

1/4 tsp xanthan gum

1/4 tsp baking soda

1/4 tsp baking powder

1/4 tsp salt

1 tbs olive oil

1 tbs almond milk

1. Combine all ingredients until you can form a ball. If it's really sticky, as some additional flour. Roll out to about 1/4 inch thickness (I made three mini pizzas).

2. Top with tasty veggies (see below). Bake at 375 for 20-25 minutes. Enjoy!

toppings

1 small or 1/2 medium yellow summer squash, thinly slices

4 asparagi chopped

1/2 cup chopped tomatoes

1/4 cup basil pest (I made mine with basil, olive oil, salt, lemon juice, and pepitas)

Sprinkle of nutritional yeast 

Happy second day of Summer!! For more, check out Wellness Weekends. 

Ivory White and a Protein Practicum

Lately, the question of how I get adequate protein in my diet seems to be a topic of interest. I have to explain that tofu is not the only thing that supplies this important nutrient...or rather, combination of essential amino acids. While soy and quinoa have the complete complement of the eight essential amino acids our bodies cannot synthsize, there are many other plant-based sources that can contribute to an overall balanced diet. For example, grains are low in lysine, while legumes often lack methionine. One can understand this and see the wisdom behind cropping systems, such as the "three sisters" - maize, beans, and squash - that is practiced in Mexico. Not only does this type of intercropping support better agroecosystem health, but it also provides the necessary building blocks for a human existence, particularly where animal products were reserved for certain times of the year or for special occasions.

In fact, I prefer lentils and beans as a protein source over tofu (which is highly processed). While you don't need to pair foods in one meal to ensure that all amino acids are present, it comes naturally when planning meals around both a grain and a legume. I decided to try these lovely ivory white lentils I picked up in the bulk bins. White lentils, the skinned black lentils or Urad Dal, are one of the most highly prize pulses is India. Their use dates back thousands of years, so ancient people must have been onto something! Lentils and maize aren't it...check out more vegan protein sources.

Spring-style Lentils
1/2 cup ivory lentils
1 cup water
Basil and salt to taste
2 small green garlics
5-6 asparagus stems

1. Bring water to a boil. Add lentils and cook until beginning to soften. Throw in the chopped green garlic and allow to continue cooking until liquid gone/desired texture reached.
2. Meanwhile, roast asparagus spears on a 375F oven until soft (and all yummy and caramelly...). Chop up, and mix in with lentils along with salt and basil (dried or fresh) to taste.
3. Serve along with polenta (either premade, sliced, and heated in a skillet, or prepared at home) and some nice rich tomato sauce ... perhaps the remnants of last year's canning adventure...

More healthy dishes on Wellness Weekends!

A Dinner on the Brink of Destruction

About two weeks ago, I regaled you with the story of the Vanishing of the Bees. As if to prove this was an issue that merited my attention, another article came across my radar in March's issue of National Geographic Magazine. Through its usual array of breathtaking images, the magazine reminds us that recent declines and threats to pollinators (including bees, birds, bats, and small mammals) rock the foundation of many of our fruit and nut crops. Last time I wrote about possible causes for colony collapse disorder (CCD), particularly systematic pesticides, parasites, or a combination, but apparently the debate goes on.

Pollination 101

We're not going to dwell on the blame game of what is killing off the bees. Instead, I thought we could explore the magic that is pollination (in a very unscientific way). Plants produce pollen, contain half of a genetic makeup (essentially the equivalent to sperm). Because our leafy friends a rooted to the ground, they can't reproduce as animals. So, they rely on elements like wind or critters like insects and birds to transfer pollen from one flower to another. A pollen grain will then fertilize the ovary of its new host flower, which over time develops a seed (fetal plant?) and a fleshy exterior. This juicy fruit is your apple, peach, or plum and the seed is your almond, walnut, or cashew.

Some plants are generalist, while others seem to have been carefully designed to perfectly match a specific moth, etc. Now note, not every flower becomes a fruit; some flowers are only that, but they do need to pollen to produce seeds. Almonds, grown throughout California, are one of those crops mentioned in the article that are pollinated exclusively by honey bees. However, there are many other plant-based food items that rely on pollinators to produce fruits. Zucchini and squashes, tomatoes, and asparagus fall under this category.

The Meal

Well, I made a very precarious dish (in terms of pollinators, at least) this evening. For this month's SOS Kitchen Challenge, I barely squeaked by. Asparagus only surfaced about a week ago at the farmers market in DC, so haven't had too much time to play with it. And since I have been eating raw this week, it was not on the time of my veggie list. Then tonight, I decided to make a colorful meal of...

Zucchini Linguini Primavera alla Asparagi

1 zucchini, julienned or spiralized

1 tomato, diced

1/2 cup mushrooms, chopped

1/4 cup asparagus tops

1 tbs olive oil

1 tsp dried basil

1 tsp dried oregano

Salt to taste

1. Toss all ingredients together and let "marinate" for about 30 minutes. Once again, it's that easy. Consume!

Hopefully, my fresh veggie (and fruit) "pasta" doesn't represent a dying breed. The NGM article wasn't too uplifting, ending on a note of imminent doom and loss (goodbye chocolate). But Claire Kremen, researcher at UC Berkeley, offers up some solutions. Many of these require a shift in our approach to agriculture - limiting pesticides, diversifying crops and surrounding vegetation, and cultivating more bee/wildlife-friendly habitat. Not another technological bandaid, staving off the larger collapse of a system, but a restructuring of the system as a whole. Now, that's something worth cultivating.

Mi Piace la Pizza Bianca!

This month’s You Want Pies With That challenge is none other than Pizza Pie! Because I am not a big pizza eater – cheese is not on the menu and soy substitutes don’t appeal – I decided to take some inspiration from the country in both our ancestry.

Over the summer I spent a month and a half wandering around Italia. While I devoted much of my appetite (and daily budget) to gelato, I was pleasantly surprised to find cheese-less pizza so easy to come by. While your classic cheesy and meaty slices were readily available, pizza bianca and pizza rosa (essentially plain and marinara-smothered focaccia) could also be purchased by the gram.

Many a lunch in Rome consisted of this golden bread accompanied by zucchini e pomodoro. I really miss the beautiful Italian countryside, the laid-back attitude of the people, and the summer bounty of produce on the farm at which I volunteered. But the best crisp, olive-oil-brushed pizza I have eaten is not quite 6,500 miles away. Serious Pie in the heart of Seattle serves up salt-crusted pizzas baked to perfection in a classic wood-fueled oven.

While I may not have duplicated this delight (lacking in critical components like a 600F and a pizza stone), I did attempt to mimic the flavorful and delicate crust as best I could. I also wanted to embrace the same appreciation for seasonal produce that I experienced on the farm, and that the Italians in general seem to have in great supply. This meant a farmers market excursion, and glorious young spring Walla Wallas and wonderous asparagus!

OK, I won't keep you waiting any longer. I've prepared two scrumptious pizzas based upon a focaccia crust. Note, this is not for the faint of heart. Like a true Italian (ok, half, but still…), I’ve used olive oil liberally – but it is quite necessary to obtain the lovely glow and crunch outer shell.

Focaccia Base

30 g sourdough start (100% saturation)

2 g dry active yeast

150 g warm water

50 g garbanzo bean flour

200 g all-purpose or white whole wheat flour

2 tbs olive oil

5 g salt

1. Mix started, 50 g warm water, and yeast. Let sit for 5 minutes or until bubbly (yeast “activated”).

2. Combine with flours, olive oil, and salt. Mix, adding water until the dough comes together and is only slightly sticky (add more flour if necessary).

3. Let rise (lievito) for 1.5 hours in a warm-ish area (I like my microwave).

4. Follow steps below.

Pizza Bianca di Cipollini e Aglio

3 cloves garlic, sliced

6 baby walla walla onions, slices

3+ tbs olive oil

Salt, kosher flaked or coarse sea, to taste

Pizza Bianca con Asparagi e Limone

4-6 stems asparagus, halved and chopped

Zest of one lemon (reserve ¼ to garnish after baked)

3+ tbs olive oil (lemon scented would be lovely)

Salt, to taste

1. Divide dough between two well-oiled round pans. Flatten into the pans.

2. Brush liberally with olive oil and sprinkle with salt.

3. Add toppings. Brush again with olive oil.

4. Let ‘rest’ in your warm place (above oven while preheating?) for 15-30 minutes.

5. Bake at 425F for 20 – 25 minutes, until golden.

Buon Appetito!

Produce of the Week: Asparagus

It is spring, or so I keep telling myself in this dreary weather. And in my opinion, there is no vegetable that better represents early spring than asparagus. In fact, in the great PNW asparagus makes an appearance between April and June (although this year the flood seemed to arrive on May 1st)! As you may have noticed in my last post, my local farmers market was abounding with these green stalks. What is a veggie girl to do in this situation but eat asparagus?

Native to Eurasia and parts of northern Africa, asparagus has been cultivated for over two millennia. It is high in an assortment of nutrients, which explains its traditional medicinal use. It tastes delicious and is very versatile, which explains its culinary spread. And, it's a perennial plant that is drought resistant, which explains its popularity in gardening circles.

So what does one do with asparagus? Well, just about every and anything. Tonight I made a lemony asparagus pizza bianca that was delicious! However, you will have to wait for my Pies-With-That post later this week to get my recipe.

One of my favorite Italian restaurants, the Risotteria at Seattle's Il Fornaio, serves up this delicious risotto. The "Dorato" is an amazing combination of asparagus, artichoke, butternut squash, zucchini, tomatoes, mushrooms, garlic, and saffron. While I could never replicate their brilliance, Smitten Kitchen has a recipe that is pretty darn close (just make vegan substitution with veggie broth and oil and leave out the cheese).

The Spring Panzanella (a bread salad) at 101 Cookbooks looks amazing! As does the Asparagus Stir-Fry. NY Times has a Balsamic Glazed Asparagus recipe, mmm... And while I'm not a big fan of cold soup, Bittersweet's Chilled Spring Soup looks lovely. Just remember, with asparagus you can never go wrong if you grill it or toss the stems with some EVOO and pasta!

Produce of the Week: Horseradish!

Yes, it is ugly. But it's good for you!

This is the only time of year I think about horseradish. Such a "bitter herb" doesn't usually make it into my sweet-tooth-influenced culinary adventures. But, it is the first night of Passover tonight, and I am necessarily obliged to think about the root. Apparently, most people think that horseradish is only fit to be used in sauces and cremes. Or, if not, their family came out of Eastern Europe originally and still finds comfort in boiled cabbage and brisket.

Well, once committed to using horseradish, I couldn't very well give it up! Horseradish happens to fall into our favorite family of vegetables - the brassicas - hence its distinctive cabbage-y, turnip-y flavor. While it has graced the fields of people dating back a few thousands of years, it was used mostly for medicinal purposes. It boasts a slew of vitamins and minerals, in addition to diuretic and antibacterial properties; it was commonly used to treat ailments such as sinus congestion, coughs, and urinary tract infections.

In terms of food origins, the Germans are granted responsibility for using horseradish as a condiment on meat and fish. And while I definitely found horseradish recipes while scouring my family's collection of cookbooks, I don't have too much interest in the many way the root complements gefilte fish! So, I gave up on Jewish cooking and my E. European roots, I decided to embrace some newer takes on the old standby.

The LA Times had an appetizing Beet and Horseradish side dish recipe - however, I found it a bit too heavy on the mustard. Playing off of my favorite winter staple, check out this Roasted Root Veggies recipe with our bitter star. For a bit of eccentricity, try the Parsnip and Pear Latkes and substitute 1 tbs grated fresh horseradish and 1 tbs tapioca starch for the egg. If you really want to make that transition to spring, opt for a light Asparagus dish with horseradish sauce.

For me, tonight, I added a little zip to my mashed potatoes and kale inspired by 101 Cookbooks!

Smashing Purple Potatoes with a Tang

4 medium purple potatoes, washed, peeled (if possible), and halved

1 medium rutabaga, quartered

1/4 large onions, chopped

2 tbs fresh horseradish, grated (sprinkled with a little vinegar after grating)

2 tbs olive oil, or to taste

salt, to taste

Non-dairy creamer, optional or to taste

1. Boil potatoes and rutabaga until fork tender.

2. While potatoes are on, caramelize the onions in a small frying pan with about 1/2 tbs olive oil.

3. When both are done, combine in a bowl (or sauce pan) with horseradish and salt. Mash with a masher!

4. Add olive oil to preferred taste and consistency.

5. Serve with a side of garlicky sauteed kale!

Up Next: Pies!